Seas Coaxial Speaker Crossover for H1333, H1353, Loki, T18*

HI Folks. By any measure, this XO coupled with the H1333 in a sealed .4 cubic foot box center located under your theater TV will produce a "magic" result. I "tweaked" the values shown here slightly to take out the midrange dip and tweeter "tilt" down to the 3k crossover point when used with the H1333 for a center channel speaker. My 2 or 3 year old H1333 may have had slightly different parameters. Mad may be using slight compromise values for multiple uses as indicated. At any rate, values that worked for me to produce a nearly razor flat (+or - .5db, 40hz to 18hz in my room, 2 ft from wall and 2 feet from floor on custom shelf under my TV) are: 2.0 mH woofer coil and 4.7 mfd bypass cap (replaces 10 mfd), Tweeter cap is 3.3mfd, the .27mH coil OK, 3 ohm eagle series resistor only, omitted the parallel resistor bypassing the tweeter. The smaller 4.7 cap raises the woofer cut point, as dropping the bypass resistor adds more output from the tweeter especially through the range of 3k to 8k, taking out the tilt. I cannot overstress how important it is to have a single coincident driver for a center channel. Any MTM arrangement will cause massive dropouts in critical frequencies from 200hz to 1k hertz for off axis listeners.... my favorite chair is not on center. I spend a fortune attempting to make a center channel that worked before discovering the Seas H1333. The 6.5 also brilliantly responds in my .38 ft sealed box, augmented by the placement near the wall and floor (2ft x 2ft) to respond all the way down to 40 hz. In theater applications, there is a lot of critical bass and midrange.. the explosions and gunshots... that must be carried by the center channel to achieve realism. Nothing less than a 6.5 can do this... and this one (H1333 and crossover here) also delivers off axis audibility. It astounds me that the TV industry has as its standard a "sound bar" or even a side saddle MTM that sound so truly awful.